Forrest Mallard

- June 14, 2020

Cruz de Ferro – The Iron Cross

leaving stones at the iron cross

If you are planning to hike the Camino de Santiago along the Camino Frances route, and if you have done the right research, you will learn that there are several traditions in which you can participate as you walk the ancient trail. One of these traditions is the carrying of a stone and placing it at the base of the Iron Cross, or Cruz de Ferro (Cross of Iron). Sometimes, people bring other sentimental objects to leave at this site, such as photos, religious tokens, and letters.

Following tradition, the stone is taken from your home or wherever you begin your journey. As you walk the Camino, you must carry the stone for more than three weeks in your backpack. As you can imagine, even the smallest amount of weight can become a massive burden when you are walking an average of 25 kilometers each day. Still, in order to participate in this ritual, you make room in your bag for the rock and you accept the task.

When you arrive at the Iron Cross, there is also a traditional prayer that could be said when laying down your stone:

Prayer at Cruz de Ferro

O Lord,
May the stone which I bring to this holy place
Be a sign of pilgrimage to Santiago.
When I reach my final judgment,
Tip the balance of my life
In favor of my good deeds.
I lay down this token
Which I carry from [starting point].
Please forgive my sins
And help me carry my burdens in life.

Camino Family

On my personal journey along the Camino in the summer of 2015, I was fortunate to meet, befriend and eventually form a familial type of bond with a few others that were on the same path. Our tight little group eventually collected an eclectic mix of people and personalities from all around the world.

Jomayra’s Journey to The Iron Cross

Born and raised in Puerto Rico, Jomayra inhabited every positive character trait of the Latina cliché. She had the energy of a firecracker; on her face was an endless smile; her walk was more of a dance; and her lust for life was without limits.

She met and married a Dutch man, and together they made a life in Valencia, Spain. There was no doubt in her mind that the man she married was absolutely-without-a-doubt her soul-mate, and their two beautiful sons were growing up happy, healthy, and loved.

By the year 2014 however, the after-effects of the 2010 economic crash were still being felt. Every day felt like the walls were closing in on their family and every day, tough choices needed to be made to maintain the life that they had become accustomed to.

One day Jomayra’s husband took the dogs for a walk, and never returned. As friends and neighbors searched for her husband, Jomayra already knew in her heart what had happened.

“Beautiful, smart, successful, best-dad-ever, great lover, amazing husband. I can talk endlessly about him, because he was so much more than just superfluous adjectives. It is impossible to describe him without an eternity to try … and he was gone, and he took me with him. Yes, he left us behind by taking his own life. June 30th, 2014, my dreams and my joy imploded.”

More than a year later, Jomayra was still just a shell of the person she had been. The devastation was so intense and so complete, it was impossible for her to find the joy in her life that had always been there before.

“Barely living for a year on autopilot, too numb to realize that I had finally run out of fuel. I had no strength left, and I crashed. Broken and sobbing with my head on my younger son’s shoulder. He was in his senior year of High School, just weeks away from graduation, and I couldn’t hold it together any longer. Every cell in my body was broken and I had no idea how to fix this pain.”

If she continued like this, she knew she would die too, and so she decided to walk the Camino de Santiago hoping that a long walk would clear her head.

“I felt like I had a choice to make. Continue down this dark and twisted road and let this destroy me, or find find a reason to wake up each day. Then it came to me, my call, to Camino de Santiago; I had to go in search of my healing. For myself and for my children.”

Peter’s Journey to The Iron Cross

In 1993, Peter’s five-year-old daughter became very sick. A rare bacteria had entered her blood stream, and in only 2 weeks, sweet Esmé became the second fatality in the Netherlands from this rare blood condition.

In 2015, days before leaving for the Camino de Santiago, Peter visited the grave of his daughter. Could there be anything in life that could weigh as much on your heart as the death of a child? It was at the grave that Peter picked up a stone, and put it in his pocket. To take this memento on this journey, it could feel like sharing one last adventure with his daughter, and then with the hopes of leaving this stone at the Cruz de Ferro, perhaps just a little of the weight that was still in his heart could be released.

Solitary and stoic, or so he may seem at first. Peter possesses, what I consider to be, one of the most endearing qualities to be found in any person: a relentless and merciless sarcasm that is not only brilliantly funny, but also good-hearted and a sign that despite the verbal brutality, he actually likes you.

Peter often talks about his time in the Special Forces, and though he is a bit older now, it is not hard to see from his posture and demeanor, that he can still kick ass if needed. Yet beyond the endless sarcasm and brutal military training, the carrying of this stone was evidence of his humanity and the presence of a pain from which no tough exterior could protect him.

On the stone he painted his daughter’s name. She was indeed, coming along for this journey.


And so they walked.

One of the many magical things about the Camino de Santiago, is that within a few days of walking along the trail, everyone knows everyone, at least peripherally. While you might have a core group you are walking with, there is always plenty of opportunity to meet and chat with absolutely everyone along the way. And you do.

walking and talking on the camino de santiago

“Most of the mornings we start to walk in a group, but within 30 minutes we start to break up as our individual pace takes over. But we know that within the first hour we will all be crowded into the the first coffee shop we can find, begging for a cup of coffee with tortilla de patata on the side. Here we wake up together.”

One day, Jomayra was standing just off the trail, staring at the mountains in the distance, and crying. A small group had gathered around her to see if she was alright, but she insisted that she was just overcome by the beauty of nature. With tears streaming down her face she made a point of telling each of the people around her that we were all so lucky to be here, in this beautiful place, right now. She almost insisted that we appreciate it. We must appreciate it.

The Camino worked its magic and by the third week, Jomayra and Peter had found themselves in a growing group of friends. A random mix of individual hikers that somehow found a common bond. From Australia, Canada, Israel, the United States, the Netherlands, Wales, the Faroe Islands, Germany, and New Zealand, this small group called themselves ‘The Flock’ and eventually they became a Camino Family.

In the third week of our journey, The Flock had found themselves at an outdoor restaurant on a lovely afternoon. This was the first time that Jomayra had an opportunity to speak one-on-one with Peter and they got to the topic of why they were each walking the Camino.

The Lost Stone

The day after sharing with each other the stories of why they were walking the Camino, something amazing happened.

Long and winding road of the camino de santiago

“I don’t remember how I ended up walking completely alone. That morning the sky was so blue with not a single cloud. I remember the smell. The calming aroma. Instinctively feeling like I close my eyes and life my head, so that they sun can kiss my face. This was all a balm to my ravaged soul. I was so immersed in this profound meditation, that I felt a little lightheaded.”

“Occasionally I would stop, looked around, and see that there was nobody around me. For the first time, I was completely alone. The thought crossed my mind that I might be lost. Maybe I missed a turn while I was walking with my eyes closed. However, I was with myself and for the first time in so long, that was good enough for me.”

the long road of the camino de santiago

“As I stumbled along in my euphoria, I felt someone walking beside me. After a short chat, Peter ventured on. His pace much faster than mine, and I wanted desperately to get back into my zone of joyful oblivion.”

“Occasionally opening my eyes to make sure I stay on the trail, I plodded along like this for some time. Something out of the corner of my eye pulled me out of the zone I had been in. I approached it, and bent over to look at it closely.”

“It was a stone, right in the middle of the path. It is not uncommon to see random artwork alongside the trail of the camino, but not right on the path. I felt like this had to be something else. Something that had fallen from somebody’s backpack. I looked at the name written on this beautiful stone and thought to myself ‘Oh,my god! This must be Peter’s’ But I wasn’t sure because he hadn’t told me his daughter’s name.”

The Return of the Stone

“My heart was pumping and I finally decided to pick it up and just ask him as soon as I saw him. If this was not Peter’s then I would put it back on a side of Camino, but I had to at least ask him.”

A very long dusty road camino de santiago

“Almost three hours later, I arrived a bit too early at my Alburgue, so sat by the garden to put my feet up. Out of my pocket slid the stone and once again the urgency of finding Peter came to me.”

“I found a man named Rick from our group and I told him the story of the stone.” Rick had heard the story from a Canadian man named Cam, so they went to find him.

“I asked Cam if he could remember the name of Peter’s daughter.
He said ‘It starts with E.’
‘Is it Esmé?’ I squeaked in excitement.
He said ‘Yes!!'”

They were able to return the stone to Peter at the very moment Peter realized he had lost it.

Jomayra and Peter with their Camino Certificates

“When I saw Peter the next morning, we both embraced. We both were carrying so much pain and sharing such similar burdens created a special bond between us. I asked him what he was going to do with his daughter’s stone. He told me about the Cruz de Ferro, where people bring their burdens and leave them there.” Jomayra looked into Peter’s eyes and told him “Now I know where I’m going to put my husband’s ashes. At Cruz de Ferro.

Camino family dinner

These strangers, with lives so deliberately woven together, bound now in this magnificent moment that seemed impossible. Without even looking for it, Jomayra noticed this one stone and thought it interesting enough to pick it up. Out of the millions of stones along the Camino de Santiago, she picked up this one. Then, to be able to return the stone to its owner through a chain of random acquaintances.

Something magical had happened, and everyone knew it.

Arriving at Cruz de Ferro

Cruz de Ferro Camino de Santiago

Weeks after we began our journey, we finally approached the Cruz de Ferro early one morning. Simply an Iron Cross placed atop a 16-foot, gnarled-wooden pole. Standing tall above a pile of sentimental stones that has been slowly growing for a thousand years.

Sveta Leaving Stones at Cruz de Ferro

There was something different about this moment. Though we had explored stunning cathedrals along the way, those places did not command the respect of this lonely icon in the wilderness. This weathered iron and wood.

Jomayra leaves ashes at the iron cross
Jomayra leaving ashes at Cruz de Ferro

Jomayra says “I will never forget the silence of all of us going in that morning as we approached the Iron Cross. It was like …we were meant to be together at that moment.”

Esme stone and photo left at the Iron Cross
Esmé’s stone at the base of the Iron Cross

Instinctively, we approached the mound of rubble solemnly, silently. We took turns climbing the mound to have our moment. Peter set down Esmé’s stone. Jomayra poured some of her husbands ashes. We came together, held each other, and cried.

Our camino family embraces

Through the bond of the Camino, we were family, and after a year of being in an emotional coma, Jomayra returned home with so much life, joy, love, and enthusiasm, that she scared her children.

Camino Family Testimonials:

Jomayra (Puerto Rico, USA)

I just want to let you know that I couldn’t do that long walk without you. You guys witnessed the end of my previous Life and the caterpillar became a butterfly. I remember every hug, kiss, laugh, giggle, and tear that we shared.

Rick (Washington, USA)

Rick Wood Camino de Santiago
Rick Wood on the Camino de Santiago

As I sat in the room in Ste. Jean on 5/15/2015 surrounded by perfect strangers, the classic question was posed. “Why are you walking?”
I waited my turn.
My response was probably the most honest thing I had ever admitted: “I just need to go for a really long walk.”
I grew up a vagabond. Stable was a place where you kept your horse. The fringe was always my comfort zone.
I asked myself that night, “I wonder who I will meet.”
The next day I met Peter and Cam; two bookend projections of myself. One young, strong, impetuous, and energetic; the other older, still strong, calculated, and wise.
The next day I met Jo; an epicenter of emotion needing equally to give and receive, but like myself missing the essential anchor. I walked the next 34 days with these 3 people. And, as we walked, we flocked together with others. I stayed in my fringe because I know that is the safest place for me, but that flock taught me so much. I learned that it was okay to hurt and to let the energies of others help you heal.
Buen Camino.

Rick Wood (Washington State, USA)

Sanna (Faroe Islands)

I often see life as the trajectory of a river
And at times you cross paths with other rivers
Their water mixes with yours and your water mixes with theirs
And you often split back into your own individual paths
But you will always carry some of the water with you
And time is a construct
A river is at all its stages at any time
Just like life.
We’re just flowing along it one increment at a time.

A true story of how a group of individual, random people came together on the Camino de Santiago. They came together as a Camino Family at the Iron Cross.
A true story of how a group of individual, random people came together on the Camino de Santiago. They came together as a Camino Family at the Iron Cross.
The Iron Cross Pinterest
The Iron Cross Pinterest



    How very very beautiful. I feel so privileged to have become a late addition to this family. The strength of these relationships have deepened over the past five years, some by physical visits and others by long distance conversation. I look forward to continuing to share in your journeys. Thank you Forrest for this testament! ❤️♥️❤️

      Forrest Mallard

      THANK YOU SO MUCH CYNTHIA! You joined the group a little late, but you are still SO MUCH a part of it. One of the three Camino MOMs.. Sveta, Jomayra, and Cynthia. I wouldn't have it any other way! Love you so much.

    Cameron Fraser

    Always the best Forrest! Fate (and a deadly pandemic...) have kept us apart this year... but we shall return to Spain yet!

      Forrest Mallard

      Everything happens for a reason right? I think the fact we were denied the opportunity to get together this summer will only make the next time more sweet. Looking forward to that time.

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Hi! I'm Forrest Mallard

In 2005, I moved to Quito, Ecuador with $35 in my pocket and a small handful of online clients. Fifteen years and five continents later, there were moments of absolute glamour, as well as a number of brutal rough patches. But I always felt that a horrible day of travel is infinitely more preferable than a great day at the office. Oh the stories I could tell, and I will try to do that here in Tramposaurus Treks. You'll have access to the good times, the horrifying times, and a few well-deserved moments of travel glamour.

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